Monday, July 28, 2008

Meeting the people...

Lots to tell you about.  I hope you have the time to read...
 
One day I had the privilege of having a meeting with Mullahs.  Mullahs are the Muslim spiritual leaders.  They are responsible for leading prayers, and they are expected to have knowledge of the Qu'ran, and what is expected of a good Muslim.  The Qu'ran is written in Arabic - which many do not understand or read, so the people look to the Mullahs for direction.  Since many of the people are illiterate, they run to the Mullahs to have something read, etc..  We've been told here that words spoken by a Mullah, have the same gravity and weight here as words from Allah Himself.  I was very excited to meet these men.
 
At the meeting (known in Pashtu as a 'Shura'... which is kind of like a 'round table' where issues are discussed) there were many assembled - Mullahs and regular people... and of course, us.  I decided to serve them tea.  Tea is a popular drink here, but also, this way I can be helpful and I would have an opportunity to give them something.  Plus, I would have a chance to at least smile at them and make friends with them.  After I gave out the tea, I saw a bag of sugar packs sitting in a zip-loc bag.  I figured - hey - maybe some would appreciate to have their tea sweetened.  So, I walked up to each participant (who were already seated) and offered a sugar pack by holding the zip-loc with the opening toward them and inviting them in English to take some sugar, if they would like.  I got to this one dignified guy who looked at me wondering what I was trying to offer.  He turned to the others sitting beside him and there was a small commotion, like as if they were saying to each other: 'what the heck is this guy offering?!'.  I spun to the translator, who saved the day by saying - 'It's sugar, it's sugar... You put it in your tea!'.  Ahhhh.  The mystery ended and the guy took a sugar pack, with thanks.  I then made it around the room with the sugar and came back to the table and saw the packs of coffee and tea whitener.  Hey maybe they would want some?  So I grabbed the pack of whitener and began the process again.  When I got to the guy who had the question of the sugar pack, I saw him sitting there looking all dignified and proud about the sugar in his tea... except when I looked in the tea cup, he put the sugar in alright... paper pack and all!  I tell ya - I almost laughed!  Quietly, I took his tea away and replaced it with mine... and gave him a new sugar pack.  This time his friend came to his rescue by showing him how the pack is poured.  Haha!  I'm not laughing at the gentleman - I'm more laughing at my silliness at not explaining properly what it was I was handing out.  Next time I know!
 
So how do you hold a Shura?  With a TON of patience.  Meetings here in Afghanistan have the charm and flair of the East and Latin countries: it's all about the relationship!  You begin with lengthy introductions and explanations.  Then an issue will be brought about... of which, if it is interesting, could be discussed (rather - 'mulled over') for some time.  Should the senior member there decide to speak for 30 minutes - everybody should just be quiet and listen - he, as most senior guy / oldest guy has the floor.  He's the boss!  The discussions always include a long story of some sort.  When the story is being told, you should not tune out!  Sometimes it's like Aesop's Fables or something... the point of the speaker's message is in the story.  Once, we (the West) got slammed by the story teller, but in such a nice way!  It's like in the Philippines, where nothing is ever told directly (that's insulting!).  So it is usually made as a suggestion through an indirect means.  Well - the Afghan's way is not missed on me!
 
The Shura went on for hours... and we were discussing a single issue!  For a Westerner - this is torture, but for them - it's the way it works.  I felt sorry for everyone since, it was SO hot in the room, that the fans seemed to be blowing HOT HOT air at us!  I touched the table I was at, and I swear - it was as if the wood had heating elements underneath it.  Bear in mind - we were inside and in the shade!  I looked at my buddy's face, and it was beet red from the heat and with perspiration!  But the Afghans are tough.  They kept on the strong steady path until the isue was done.
 
LUNCH!  We were served lunch once - an Afghan lunch!  The Afghan National Army Soldiers served it to us.  I went into the room to where we were going to eat, just to help out.  Some of the soldiers were 'setting the table'.  Here, you have to do as they do.  You cannot wince, you cannot say anything, and you cannot do anything to show them your dispeasure / discomfort over the hospitality they offer you.  I watched the soldiers pull out some blue tarpaulins - just like the groundsheets you line the bottom of your tent with.  They then spread this over the table.  Remember how I said that the level of hygiene here is, well - different?  Well these guys opened up a box of food, and with their bare hands began to grab the bread and toss it all over the table.  Then came the pot of rosted lamb... in went the hands and flying on to the flatbread went the meat!  Next chopped veggies, etc..  I was told... don't eat anything unless you peel it or boil it.  Well, that thought had to get tossed.  Everyone sat down to eat.  I bowed my head to pray Grace Before Meals... and a prayer to St. Raphael to please not let me get sick!  (there have been some people that have walked out of meals with SERIOUS problems... I mean serious Pepto Bismol, 'skip to the loo', upset stomach, etc. etc..  Here, the nickname is 'The Kandahar Trots').  I dug into my food and ate with as much gusto as I could.  (I had Afghans sitting to my right and left)  Dudes... if I saw something that would get a chef fired in Canada, well - it just got picked up, and placed to the side.  Eating and showing gratitude to my hosts was the mission.  Plus - they already knew I am a Christian.  What would they think if I didn't finish everything?  What impression wold they get of all of us for our gratitude for the food we receive from Allah?  Anyhow - eating with my un-Purelled and unwashed hands (but clean for local standards), I enjoyed a delicious meal (with great company, I might add) of: Roasted Lamb and Kebab Beef, Afghan Flatbread, Vegetables and watermelon.  Mmmm!
--------------------------------------
I had the opportunity to stop by a bakery.  It was in the middle of this dusty field, in a mud hut.  Inside were all these men and boys working hard in front of ovens, kneading and shaping bread.  As soon as I entered the bakery, I saw a young boy smiling at me.  He was shaping bread on a rock, or step.  Anyhow - he jumped up and wanted to shake my hand.  With flour covered hnds he extended his small hand to me and I made a friend!  I was taken on a tour of their mud-hut bakery - which they were SO proud of!  Outside children were gathering and we were able to stop and say hello.  It was a great time to be smiling and laughing with children once again! 
------------------------------
I had such a great time with the kids that one time, I thought, next time I plan to go to a place where I think there will be children, I'll bring something for them.  So when that chance came, I grabbed a big bag of lolipops and jumped into the vehicle.  I thought - wow, the kids in the last place were so nice, this will be a good experience.  I decided to ask my friend to take some pics so I could send them home.  As I pulled up to this community (what we would call a slum), kids started to gather.  As I got out of the vehicle, I was confronted by a boy.  So I opened the bag of lollipops, and from nowhere there were TONS of kids.  They were angry!  I tried to give them one candy per kid, but I got swamped!  I was trying to get candies to the little kids, but suddenly, about 7 or 8 kids had grabbed for the bag (which my had was wrapped in) and formed a little scrum around it - all fighting each other!  My hand got trapped in the scrum, and for a second I had 8 kids attached to me (or me to them!).  Finally, after some shouting and screaming from everyone, I got my hand back.  We jumped into the vehicle to get away (I was worried about the kids and the possibility of running one of them over - I wouldn't want that).  Suddenly, the DOORS to the vehicle were opened and kids were trying to swarm the vehicle!  More shouting and scuffling.  Finally, the kids backed off.  Whew!  Well, that's what you get for going into a slum with no plan.  The kids aren't bad, they probably just had to fight for everything, and I suspect that perhaps nobody taught them manners.  I have heard Afghan children are well behaved.  Well - that's because here - family is important, for the most part.  I was told this was an exception.  So there you have it - I got mugged for a bag of lollipops.  You better believe I was checking to see if they lifted my wallet!
-----------------------
As for pics - I want to post lots, but the problem here is one of security.  I can't have a pic of anyone else but me, therefore if someone else is in it and their identity can be established, I can't post it.  Here, where people are around you most of the time, this can be a challenge!  Certain locations are classified, and so are certain people.  For pictures carelessly posted, people have been assassinated, kidnapped, or harmed.  Hence, I'll try to post pics, but I'd rather save most of them for when I get back to our safe Canada.
 
Also - I know I'm a stickler for spelling, and some of my posts have had real spelling mistakes.  Please excuse them - I have limited time on the internet, and have no time to edit.  (But that doesn't excuse you from spelling mistakes on your essays and tests for me!  ;)  Hahaha!)
 
 

1 comment:

TheChemicalBrewer said...

Hey sir,
Sorry I have not written in a while. I'm just writing to say hi. It sounds like your immune system is getting a work out! Well you haven't gotten sick yet so hopefully your good health will continue. Keep it up sir, we are all proud of you here!!!
Yours,
Boots